| HISTORY: Cambiata is a small independently-owned winery. For 25 years Eric Lauman has made wine and grown grapes for quality California wineries. In 2002, following the fortunate securement of a long-term Monterey vineyard lease, he decided to produce wines under his own label. His intention is to make distinctive wines for wine enthusiasts who appreciate learning about and enjoying great food wines, wines that go beyond the Franco triumvirate of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhone. PHILOSOPHY: By choosing Cambiata for his label, he wanted to work with a concept that broadened the vocabulary of the way that we usually think about wine. Cambiata in musical language means more than the literal translation of “exchange” or “changed note.” It is the added tonal dimension that occurs when two chords momentarily share properties, so that the transition has greater depth and mellifluence. It was a radical idea back in the sixteenth century and was almost outlawed, along with a large group of polyphonic idioms. The cambiata is expressed on his label with the idea of divine proportion. People gravitate towards objects or art that incorporate divine proportion: the Parthenon, the Taj Mahal, The Last Supper. These proportions are also common in nature, and, for example, are seen in the rose and the nautilus shell. On the Cambiata label the use of the spiral refers to the recursive shape of the nautilus, and of the recursive character of the wine, elements that continue to appear vintage after vintage, and work to better define, expand and make the terroir more evident--somewhat like the time dimension that's needed for the musical cambiata to work. Divine proportion, then, is a metaphor for the balance between terroir and wine, where the wine proportionally expresses the vineyard. He chose “Gradus Ad Parnassum,” the title of Joseph Fux’s 1725 music textbook, as Cambiata’s motto, and this appears on the wine’s label. This pedagogical thesis, translated from Latin under the supervision of Bach and still in print today, was used by Leopold Mozart to teach young Wolfgang Amadeus, his son, the fundamentals of counterpoint--one essential fundamental being the beautifully melodic and vivaciously harmonic Nota Cambiata. “Gradus ad Parnassum” translates as Steps to Parnassus, the mountain of the muses. Fux chose the title to implore his students to rigorously study and practice, to climb the metaphorical mountain. Over vintages, a winemaker’s ability grows with the knowledge he engages. You can make fine wine from the start if you hire good help but to make wine with soul you yourself must study, develop philosophies and rigorously follow those beliefs. “Without method,” Fux writes, “the passionate and the ambitious will remain forever desperately athirst.” This fable carries Fux’s lesson--that the muses will only grant mastery to those who do the climbing. WINEMAKING AND WINES: "I personally survey every row in the vineyard and top every barrel with my own hands. I focus my attention on the meticulous winemaking and farming practices that give rise to wines with distinct character and varietal expression and a clear sense of place. Cambiata wines must be worthy of fine foods and impeccably balanced." "Why Tannat and Albariño? I didn’t set out to plant unfamiliar varietals but when the opportunity arose to plant this small vineyard I found myself drawn to working with varietals that I thought were intriguing and that were relatively unexplored in the U.S. I also wanted to bring some new flavors to the wine enthusiast’s table. Anyone who has tasted Albariño and Tannat from their indigenous appellations is usually a fervent fan. I find them to be remarkable wine varietals that hopefully will have a bright future as the number of wine aficionados continues to grow." |
| Albarino Monterey |
| Vineyard: The Albariño vineyard is planted on a windy hillside of the Monterey Lucia Mountains. Like the grape’s native growing region in Spain, this location is cool and foggy. The fruit hangs till late in the season so that its natural acidity is balanced with ripe flavors.
Winemaking: This wine is made anaerobically and fermented cold to preserve its complex fruit aromas. Post fermentation the lees are stirred to build a richness that softens the acidity and makes the wine an excellent accompaniment for many seafood or spicy dishes.
Tasting Notes: Albariño is Pablo Neruda rowing with Bach on a calm lake: intense and complex but relaxed and balanced. The wine is fragrant with scents of tangerine, peach and clove. It is rich on the palate with a crisp acidity that makes it a great match for fresh or smoked fish, oysters and crustaceans. The wine also complements dishes such as stuffed poblanos, spicy tapas or artichokes. |
| Tannat Monterey |
| Vineyards: The small Tannat vineyard was planted in the rocky and well drained soils of the Santa Lucia Mountains. The cool growing region means we can harvest grapes that are fully ripe yet still retain the appropriate amount of natural acidity.
Winemaking: The challenge with Tannat is balancing the wine’s fruit and its aggressive tannins. During fermentation the winemaker tries to accentuate the soft tannins with aerobic pump overs and long macerations. Structure is built in the wine by aging it in French oak barrels for 24 months.
Tasting Notes: When Tannat is made properly, it is bold yet refined, thought provoking and rousing - an experience that extends beyond the last glass. It has a rich fragrance of violets and brush, like Santa Ana winds over a field of sage. The tannins immediately fill your mouth (and for the uninitiated this might cause a moment of concern) but you’ll see they are knitted and structured and form the matrix that begins to fill with a thick, surging wave of viscous blackberry and licorice fruit. With another sip (and we think that you will be tempted to take one), you’ll continue exploring the wine made from this extraordinary grape. For Cambiata Tannat, break out your aged beef, ripest cheese and a contemplative state of mind; the wine’s intensely concentrated flavors, quintessentially indigo red profile and forthright but balanced tannins will reward all three. |
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